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<blockquote data-quote="ossagp" data-source="post: 219516" data-attributes="member: 1650"><p>FYI,&nbsp; that particular mikuni with the individual float lobes is very convenient to set.&nbsp; You first need to make sure that the two tangs on that yoke are even and level with each other.&nbsp;&nbsp; Now set the body with the yoke in place upside down on a flat surface.&nbsp; The Oklahoma default setting is to see that those two arms are level with the gasket surface, when the needle and brass tab just make contact.&nbsp; Set it or hold it in the level position and you will see that the angle created by the tangs and the needle in relationship to each other is right at 90 degrees.&nbsp; maximum leverage is achieved there for max pressure to shut off.&nbsp; It is the default design.&nbsp; Lots of us change that,&nbsp; but the factory usually sends them set at 90.&nbsp; like you used to see in those carb rebuild kits for any number of automobile carbs.&nbsp; Usually there was a little square item included in the kit to make that 90 degree setting easier.&nbsp;&nbsp; Yamaha recognizes that as your float needle wears and the spring sacks out,&nbsp; that your shut off point will come later.&nbsp; that is why they show figures using what amounts to be a sight tube (easily made from the drain plug) so you can see what that actual level is.&nbsp; knowing what the measured setting is with the float bowl off saves lots of time,&nbsp; but having the sight tube is very handy.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="ossagp, post: 219516, member: 1650"] FYI, that particular mikuni with the individual float lobes is very convenient to set. You first need to make sure that the two tangs on that yoke are even and level with each other. Now set the body with the yoke in place upside down on a flat surface. The Oklahoma default setting is to see that those two arms are level with the gasket surface, when the needle and brass tab just make contact. Set it or hold it in the level position and you will see that the angle created by the tangs and the needle in relationship to each other is right at 90 degrees. maximum leverage is achieved there for max pressure to shut off. It is the default design. Lots of us change that, but the factory usually sends them set at 90. like you used to see in those carb rebuild kits for any number of automobile carbs. Usually there was a little square item included in the kit to make that 90 degree setting easier. Yamaha recognizes that as your float needle wears and the spring sacks out, that your shut off point will come later. that is why they show figures using what amounts to be a sight tube (easily made from the drain plug) so you can see what that actual level is. knowing what the measured setting is with the float bowl off saves lots of time, but having the sight tube is very handy. [/QUOTE]

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