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Everything Dirt Bike
Make / Model Specific
Suzuki
Clutch issue
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<blockquote data-quote="2smoke" data-source="post: 154394" data-attributes="member: 563"><p>Ok. Im no professional. However I do have some experience. And I tend to be long winded with repair or replace options in this forum. I find it to be very important to give even the littlest details. So as mentioned. Get a manual for your bike. I recommend a factory manual. Though Haynes and Chilton are good also. But I like the factory manual. </p><p></p><p>Now. Based off of the year of your bike and your limited knowledge. I say replace it all. My reasoning for this is you dont really know the history of the bike. Has the clutch plates ever been replaced? When was the transmission oil replaced last, if ever? When was the clutch cable replaced, if ever? </p><p></p><p>All these parts Im going to list are from Rockymountainatv.com and specific for your year make model bike. You may find less expensive prices else were. </p><p>Tusk clutch kit (friction plates, steels, and springs) $52.99</p><p>Clutch sleeve hub (inner hub) (OEM) $61.27</p><p>Clutch basket (plate,driven) (OEM) $205</p><p>Lock washer for inner clutch hub (OEM) $1.49</p><p>Clutch basket bearing (OEM) $17.87</p><p>Thrust bearing (behind pressure plate) $7.02</p><p>Clutch cable (Tusk) $9.99</p><p>Inner Clutch hub tool (Tusk) $19.99</p><p>And a Manual. Currently Rockymountainatv doesnt carry an OEM manual for your bike. But expect to spend at least $50 on a brand new OEM manual.</p><p></p><p>Now in order of importance to purchase first: </p><p>Manual first. With out it you will have nothing but pain and heart ache with out it.</p><p>Clutch hub removal tool. You will need this tool to remove the clutch. Its the right tool for the job DO NOT improvise tools for this. You WILL break something.</p><p></p><p>Once you have everything apart that needs to come apart. Then start your inspection process. Your manual will tell you what to look for, if its still service able, or needs to be replaced. Then you replace the parts that need to be replaced. Or if money is not an option just replace it all.</p><p></p><p>But if you want to do a little trouble shooting before you spend A LOT of money I would do this.</p><p>Get some quality 2 stroke gearbox oil, <span style="font-size: 15px"><strong>Bel-Ray Gear Saver Transmission Oil 80w. </strong>Its a good all around oil and is as close to the OEM recommended oil that you can get. Remember this, everybody has there own opinions on everything. And lots of folks will tell you I run this and it works great. Examples will be automatic transmission fluid, or just regular 10W 40 engine oil or Rotella diesel engine oil. While these may work they arent what the manufacture recommends. I want to set you up for success buy using what is supposed to be in the bike. If the manufacture wanted you to use those other items they would list them in the manual for use. See Im long winded. </span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">So change the gear box oil. Besure to warm up the bike and even ride it a little to warm up the oil. Drain the oil. Reservice the gearbox. It should even tell you on the case cover how much. Probably between 750 and 850 mil. or 3/4 or a quart. </span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">I would also replace the clutch cable at this time also. Adjust the cable per specs. Then ride it. If this doesnt fix your problem, your going to spend some more money. Now you have to remove the clutch assembly and inspect for broken or worn parts. Yes its a long process if you want to try and do it inexpensively. Or you could just bite the bullet and buy all new part. Which will roughly be about $300-$500 depending on what you buy and where you buy it.</span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">Good luck in your trouble shooting and get back to us with what you find or if you need more help.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="2smoke, post: 154394, member: 563"] Ok. Im no professional. However I do have some experience. And I tend to be long winded with repair or replace options in this forum. I find it to be very important to give even the littlest details. So as mentioned. Get a manual for your bike. I recommend a factory manual. Though Haynes and Chilton are good also. But I like the factory manual. Now. Based off of the year of your bike and your limited knowledge. I say replace it all. My reasoning for this is you dont really know the history of the bike. Has the clutch plates ever been replaced? When was the transmission oil replaced last, if ever? When was the clutch cable replaced, if ever? All these parts Im going to list are from Rockymountainatv.com and specific for your year make model bike. You may find less expensive prices else were. Tusk clutch kit (friction plates, steels, and springs) $52.99 Clutch sleeve hub (inner hub) (OEM) $61.27 Clutch basket (plate,driven) (OEM) $205 Lock washer for inner clutch hub (OEM) $1.49 Clutch basket bearing (OEM) $17.87 Thrust bearing (behind pressure plate) $7.02 Clutch cable (Tusk) $9.99 Inner Clutch hub tool (Tusk) $19.99 And a Manual. Currently Rockymountainatv doesnt carry an OEM manual for your bike. But expect to spend at least $50 on a brand new OEM manual. Now in order of importance to purchase first: Manual first. With out it you will have nothing but pain and heart ache with out it. Clutch hub removal tool. You will need this tool to remove the clutch. Its the right tool for the job DO NOT improvise tools for this. You WILL break something. Once you have everything apart that needs to come apart. Then start your inspection process. Your manual will tell you what to look for, if its still service able, or needs to be replaced. Then you replace the parts that need to be replaced. Or if money is not an option just replace it all. But if you want to do a little trouble shooting before you spend A LOT of money I would do this. Get some quality 2 stroke gearbox oil, [SIZE=4][B]Bel-Ray Gear Saver Transmission Oil 80w. [/B]Its a good all around oil and is as close to the OEM recommended oil that you can get. Remember this, everybody has there own opinions on everything. And lots of folks will tell you I run this and it works great. Examples will be automatic transmission fluid, or just regular 10W 40 engine oil or Rotella diesel engine oil. While these may work they arent what the manufacture recommends. I want to set you up for success buy using what is supposed to be in the bike. If the manufacture wanted you to use those other items they would list them in the manual for use. See Im long winded. [/SIZE] [SIZE=4]So change the gear box oil. Besure to warm up the bike and even ride it a little to warm up the oil. Drain the oil. Reservice the gearbox. It should even tell you on the case cover how much. Probably between 750 and 850 mil. or 3/4 or a quart. [/SIZE] [SIZE=4]I would also replace the clutch cable at this time also. Adjust the cable per specs. Then ride it. If this doesnt fix your problem, your going to spend some more money. Now you have to remove the clutch assembly and inspect for broken or worn parts. Yes its a long process if you want to try and do it inexpensively. Or you could just bite the bullet and buy all new part. Which will roughly be about $300-$500 depending on what you buy and where you buy it.[/SIZE] [SIZE=4]Good luck in your trouble shooting and get back to us with what you find or if you need more help. [/SIZE] [/QUOTE]
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