Other 1987 XL250R electric start?

Bikelessrider

Bikelessrider

Tubecatgs:
Thanks for the update. After about 6 months I finally was able to get the bike back together, semi-restored and running about a week ago. Some before and after pics below. The temperatures have been warm outside and the bike started on the first few kicks every time so I haven't been thinking about electric start :) . However, today it is cold outside and still not familiar yet with the "tricks" or right amount of choke and gas to use while starting... this means I must have kicked the bike over 40-50 times today before I could get it started...... ugh. I am 46 years old and could lose a few pounds so this took a bit of wind out of me.... haha. That being said I have been keeping my eye open for a MC12e motor with electric start over the last few months and not having any luck. There is one for sale on eBay and he wants too much for it I think. The buy it now is $500 Australian dollars. With shipping it would cost me $450 US dollars and that motor isn't tested and does not come with a head. I made three offers and all were declined by the seller and now it says my ebay account has used up all my offers.. I can still buy it but it would have to be for the full $500 plus shipping buy it now price. I wish I had another ebay account and try another offer.. haha. Please let me know if you see any MC12e motors for sale out there. Thanks again and please keep me posted on your progress...
Click to expand...

Wow... Postage is the killer if you can find the parts... I saw a clutch master cylinder kit selling for $12 US and the shipping was going to cost $73 US, wasn't worth the effort, I ended up paying around $16 US landed from Taiwan. I think the USPS charge at their discretion lol. I'm hearing you about kicking the bike over, I'm 55 and also could lose a few pounds, I have a 1956 Triumph T110 which starts mostly on the first kick, even in the cold, but when it floods, or I don't quite get it over the compression stroke (hard to do with a 360deg crank) it's a bitch to start. I have heard that the trick to these XL's is no throttle and full choke, Get the stroke just over TDC and then kick... apparently they start like that, hot or cold... I love what you have done to the bike compared to when you bought it. Mine are still in a million pieces which is how I inherited them. I have most of the hard to get stuff now and am concentrating on the motor. The tank and seat are in good condition except for a small dent in the tank and small tear in the seat which I will take to an upholsterer and see if he can repair it, if not then I will buy another cover.

Take care mate, hope it all comes together for you and keep in touch :hifive:
 
M

Maxredhill

I'm new here. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post.
Having trouble keeping my chain tight. The chain is fairly new, not even half way on rear axle tentioners. The bike doesn't have any rollers or chain sliders. Should I put on on?
 
Bikelessrider

Bikelessrider

Hi Maxredhill,
Thanks for your question.
I haven't got that far with my build yet but I know that there are some chain guides that need to be in place for the chain to run smoothly.
As to why your chain becomes loose, I am wondering if you are over tightening it and it is stretching.
If you have a manual maybe look up the trouble shooting guide or talk to a motorcycle mechanic.
Let me know how you get on just in case I have the same problem when the time comes.
Cheers,
Bikelessrider :cheers:
 
M

Maxredhill

I usually do the 3 finger rule on top of swing arm. It's like every 3 -4 rides I'm re tightening it. I ordered a roller wheel and a chain tentioner with a spring on it. I'll set one or the other up and hope it helps align the chain better. Thinking it's stretching to much cause it's not seating perfectly
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Maxredhill:
I usually do the 3 finger rule on top of swing arm. It's like every 3 -4 rides I'm re tightening it. I ordered a roller wheel and a chain tentioner with a spring on it. I'll set one or the other up and hope it helps align the chain better. Thinking it's stretching to much cause it's not seating perfectly
Click to expand...

Probably have a worn sprocket or two.
 
M

Maxredhill

I have an xl250r. It doesn't have a roller or swim arm slider. I did make a swing arm slider. Not sure if I can put a roller on. I ordered a bolt on swing are tentioner but it sucks and don't work. I'll be ordering new chain(o ring chain) and sprockets. Hoping this will fix the prob. Unless anyone has ideas on where or how to mount a roller
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Maxredhill:
I have an xl250r. It doesn't have a roller or swim arm slider. I did make a swing arm slider. Not sure if I can put a roller on. I ordered a bolt on swing are tentioner but it sucks and don't work. I'll be ordering new chain(o ring chain) and sprockets. Hoping this will fix the prob. Unless anyone has ideas on where or how to mount a roller
Click to expand...

What year XL250? I'm not sure but i think there were models without rollers.
 
M

Maxredhill

How important is a roller. This bike had a semi new chain when I got it. Before every ride I lube it up. It's a non o ring chain. And I tignten 1 notch after each ride to get it back to the 1" of play. It's either a crappy chain or I just need a new set up. Seems fast to wear tho
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Maxredhill:
How important is a roller. This bike had a semi new chain when I got it. Before every ride I lube it up. It's a non o ring chain. And I tignten 1 notch after each ride to get it back to the 1" of play. It's either a crappy chain or I just need a new set up. Seems fast to wear tho
Click to expand...


Apparently not important to that bike if it didn’t come stock with one. What brand chain? I bought primal drive non O-ring chains and they last a long time.
 
SRAD97750

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
O-ring chains are for road bikes to keep them quiet.

Rollers in the chain system are there to maintain the chain tension when the swingarm has moved out to an extreme and the arc leaves the chain momentarily loose. If your bike didn't come with one, it isn't necessary due to the swingarm geometry inherent in that model.

I have found in custom fabrication, the #1 most important component is the chain guide that aligns the chain with the rear sprocket. If this unit is aligned correctly and has good sliders installed, the chain can be completely loose and never have an issue.

I am convinced your chain and sprockets are toast, or perhaps a new chain was put on old sprockets. They should be changed as a set. The rollers wear and the teeth are matched to the wear, otherwise the chain/sprocket wears really fast.
These are the only two reasons a chain would need actual additional adjustment after a single ride.

I ride streetbikes that use the same exact chain as my dirtbike, with 4-5 times the power. No dirtbike is stretching chains. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
Top