Installed a fuse block of switched power from the unused license plate connector hiding with taillight loom. It looked like a rats nest initially, but I have cleaned it up just a bit since the installation of the awesome dash panel I acquired from VW4TUBE. This panel I equipped with a dual USB block, 3 SPST lighted switches, and one momentary switch.
The USB switch is always hot so that I can use it without the bike’s ignition being on. The voltmeter and reverse camera switches are ignition-switched power from the fuse block.
Replaced the spark plugs with new NGK CR9EHIX-9 that I found for a good price ($6.50ea). The old ones showed excellent cappuccino brown all the way down the insulator. The tips looked new.
Removed the PAIR tubing and placed very nice quality plugs and clamps on the PAIR valve covers and air box openings. Sealed the plugs on with Black RTV and clamped them while still tacky. I left the PAIR actuator connected electrically, but restrained it away from the valve cover to prevent it from bouncing around.
Inspected the EFI fuel lines, they were all in good condition with zero cracking or sign of age. No leaks evident.
Adjusted the throttle cables more to my liking, they were a hair too tight from the previous owner. Much more relaxed on/off throttle application. Made sure they were nice and tight at the throttle bodies.
Cleaned the OEM air filter with compressed air from both sides, still looks new. I picked up a K&N but I have yet to install it. I think I’ll wait until I have a PCIII onboard.
Replaced the engine coolant. The drained coolant was a very dark forest green. Not sure if it was some off-brand racing coolant, or just old? Put in new 50/50 mixed light green antifreeze.
Replaced the engine oil with Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5w40. The drained oil looked fairly new and still lighter in color than the new T6 (which is pretty dark to start). Replaced engine oil filter with OEM.
Inspected the valve clearances and found everything to be well in spec and to my liking, I will recheck every 20K miles or so.
#1 IN 0.15mm EX 0.23mm
#2 IN 0.18mm EX 0.23mm
#3 IN 0.18mm EX 0.23mm
#4 IN 0.15mm EX 0.20mm
Balanced the throttle bodies with my SyncPro. One cylinder was 4-5 clicks off of the others, but mostly in good balance. This tool is very nice, certainly sensitive enough to see definitive change every click of the adjuster on the throttle body.
Replaced the chain with a Uni-Bear gold o-ring unit. Looks really nice and will complement the Ohlins shock. Replaced the sprockets with the chain. I went with aftermarket from and rear with “euro spec gearing” 17/44. The brinelling sludge behind the sprocket cover and around the clutch pushrod was atrocious. Spent the good part of 3 hours getting it all out and cleaned up for new parts. Lubed the spline with marine grease to stave it off longer this time. While at it, I noticed the cush drive was kinda loose and the pillows were hard as rocks. The little rubber links between pillows were cracked off, a sure sign the rubber has gone. Replaced with new OEM pillow blocks.
Inspected the steering head bearings per the manual and found them to be silky smooth. I decelerate hands-off pretty frequently, so I suspect I will notice immediately when they are getting worn.
Removed the Ohlins rear shock and inspected it to find out why it has become a ScottOhlinser and dripping all its shock fluid onto the chain and associated area. The connection where the remote preload is located was dripping from the fitting. I tried tightening it up, but decided to just have the thing overhauled by a professional with tools/parts on hand. I don’t know if it was installed 2k miles before or 15K miles before purchase, rather get it serviced. Installed the very low mileage OEM shock that was included in the bike purchase. Very easy to swap between them. Discovered I am running a 9.24mm shim under the shock mount and the forks are dropped in the trees nearly an inch. Ran the preload a little higher on the OEM, feels similar to the Ohlins around town.
With everything cleaned up and either new or in spec, I am confident I will love this bike for quite a long time. The Ohlins, 9.24mm shim, and 1 inch dropped forks really make this thing handle like a SPORTbike. I am not a light fellow, nor am I easy on her in the corners. She gobbles the road up beneath me better than any other bike I’ve ever owned.
The mods I have made with the dash, switches, monitor, reservoir covers, and carbon fiber decals remind me a lot of a fighter jet’s cockpit. Makes me happy to ride it when everything I look at just screams FAST.
The performance gains from the PAIR removal and balancing the throttle bodies was minimal but it sure idles smooth and barks like dog out of the two bros cans. All in all, I have a hair over 4,000 miles put on it since February and have loved every second. The position is nice and wrist heavy, and the tank accommodates body weight in a comfortable way. Hoping for many more trouble free miles.
Made myself some brackets for holding the saddle bags, which came with the bike, off the fairings and turn signals. I have gone on two 400 mile trips with them fully loaded. I use a clevis inside the bag to hold the bag to the bracket, which makes for a 5 second removal of a full bag. Leaves behind the brackets, but they don’t look too shabby now they are powder coated gloss black.
Mods coming this year include Beestoy’s electronic cruise control and possibly a PCIII and dyno tuning. If things go as they normally do, this beauty might see a small (25-50) shot of NOS for ‘one-off displays of idiocy’ in the next 10 years.
What do you think about all this? -BIG DAN
How's it all looking up there after the fires
