125 89 YZ125
- Thread starter Trfsrfr
- Start date
Okay, I rechecked, and I'm gonna stand firm.
The first link you sent, the only one I'm gonna mention here, sends one to page 234 of 572, carburetor and reed valve;
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=234#manual-BIG
When one navigates to page 3 of that same manual, at the bottom, it says 2005.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=3#manual
So am I reading this incorrectly?
Help me out.
The first link you sent, the only one I'm gonna mention here, sends one to page 234 of 572, carburetor and reed valve;
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=234#manual-BIG
When one navigates to page 3 of that same manual, at the bottom, it says 2005.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=3#manual
So am I reading this incorrectly?
Help me out.
***INCORRECT INFORMATION BELOW***
The vehicle code on every page including the cover, designates the year of the vehicle model. The letter is the same across all Yamaha models. My 1993 WR500 is a WR500(E).
http://dropbears.com/y/yamaha/modelcodes.htm
-BIG DAN
That is the Re-print copyright date of the actual manual scanned into this website. Much like when an old book is reprinted, the new copyright date is included.
The vehicle code on every page including the cover, designates the year of the vehicle model. The letter is the same across all Yamaha models. My 1993 WR500 is a WR500(E).
http://dropbears.com/y/yamaha/modelcodes.htm
-BIG DAN
Dan,
With all due respect-
It clearly says "1st edition, May 2005" on page 2, in English;
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=2#manual
It's the 1st edition manual for the 2005 model.
EC010010
YZ125(V)
OWNER'S SERVICE MANUAL
©2005 by Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd.
1st Edition, May 2005
If that doesn't convince you, lets take a look at an image from the manual you linked to, of the carb float that you linked to in the manual;
This shows a carb that has 1 completely connected float.
Not 2 separate floats like my carb (Mikuni TM) has. Obviously this is a different carb than the Mikuni TM.
Here is the image of a carb for a 2005 yz125;
It has 1 connected float.
2 different carbs, 2 different manuals, for 2 different bikes.
The above linked manual (again, thank you for the time in digging) is not correct for my bike.
With all due respect-
It clearly says "1st edition, May 2005" on page 2, in English;
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581989/Yamaha-Yz125-V.html?page=2#manual
It's the 1st edition manual for the 2005 model.
EC010010
YZ125(V)
OWNER'S SERVICE MANUAL
©2005 by Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd.
1st Edition, May 2005
If that doesn't convince you, lets take a look at an image from the manual you linked to, of the carb float that you linked to in the manual;
This shows a carb that has 1 completely connected float.
Not 2 separate floats like my carb (Mikuni TM) has. Obviously this is a different carb than the Mikuni TM.
Here is the image of a carb for a 2005 yz125;
It has 1 connected float.
2 different carbs, 2 different manuals, for 2 different bikes.
The above linked manual (again, thank you for the time in digging) is not correct for my bike.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1191896/Yamaha-1993-Yz250e-Lc.html?page=231#manual
I would use this manual with the same carburetor as a starting point and see how it goes. Shows 15-17mm on the float arm. -BIG DAN
I would use this manual with the same carburetor as a starting point and see how it goes. Shows 15-17mm on the float arm. -BIG DAN
http://www.robswheels.com/robswheels/garage/bike_data/yamaha_year_codes.html
Seems this Year codes chart is more up to date, which shows an overlap in model year code as we see in the above manuals. -BIG DAN
Seems this Year codes chart is more up to date, which shows an overlap in model year code as we see in the above manuals. -BIG DAN
Was going to say that the letters in the VC from older bikes to newer are used to confuse the general public.
Its all good. As long as I dont spend money on parts that wont fit, everything is cool.
I'll go with the 15-17mm as recommended. A pain in the ass to set this float though. I can see why they went to the TMX.
A set of reeds and she'll fire up.
While I'm waiting for those, the cylinder and piston for the 01 came back from re-plating...
I'll go with the 15-17mm as recommended. A pain in the ass to set this float though. I can see why they went to the TMX.
A set of reeds and she'll fire up.
While I'm waiting for those, the cylinder and piston for the 01 came back from re-plating...
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Thanks Mike. I wont.
I'm gonna wait for the kiddo to arrive tomorrow, present him with a box of parts, and say here you go, one yz125 almost ready to take to the track...and see what he says. He's kinda lazy, so we'll see when that bike fires for the first time.
But until then, I flipped the reeds and fired the 89/90 project about 5 minutes ago for the first time since I've owned it.
Sounds like I hoped it would.
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FYI, that particular mikuni with the individual float lobes is very convenient to set. You first need to make sure that the two tangs on that yoke are even and level with each other. Now set the body with the yoke in place upside down on a flat surface. The Oklahoma default setting is to see that those two arms are level with the gasket surface, when the needle and brass tab just make contact. Set it or hold it in the level position and you will see that the angle created by the tangs and the needle in relationship to each other is right at 90 degrees. maximum leverage is achieved there for max pressure to shut off. It is the default design. Lots of us change that, but the factory usually sends them set at 90. like you used to see in those carb rebuild kits for any number of automobile carbs. Usually there was a little square item included in the kit to make that 90 degree setting easier. Yamaha recognizes that as your float needle wears and the spring sacks out, that your shut off point will come later. that is why they show figures using what amounts to be a sight tube (easily made from the drain plug) so you can see what that actual level is. knowing what the measured setting is with the float bowl off saves lots of time, but having the sight tube is very handy.