2 Stroke 96 250 sx won't hit power valve

[ossagp]

Also the manual I have is downloaded from offline not sure if it really is specific to my year? So far it seems to be targeted towards my year. I just know that my year is like obsolete and a bit different then newer models. Detailed pics and a full day of riding this weekend should tell us everything. I'm not sure where my float is suppose to be adjusted heighth wise. My bike is a 96 250 sx if you find any info spec wise I'll take it thanks.

if it is a keihin pwk it should be set at 16mm. tuners pick float settings like they do other jetting, but they know how to jet for the float setting they pick. floats cause the rig to run richer as they come out of adjustment. the key to a good clean shutoff is to have the maximum leverage off the float arms at shutoff. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO you want the float arms to be at an exact right angle with the float needle as the extended tip of the needle makes contact with the float tang that it rides on. go very far one way or the other and you start losing said leverage. you can as mentioned jet for reasonable deviations, but you have to know what to return to.

FYI those guys who used to ride carbureted bikes that you read about winning nationals all had their floats set before the event and maybe even during the event. it affects how the rig runs all the way across the board. biggest cause of fouling and flooding in coasting mode that there is.

 

[Trfsrfr]

While I agree with that assessment from an owners standpoint, I still dont like the 'throw a part in and see if it works' way of repairing things for 2 reasons;
1) you dont really learn from the scenario. Obviously solid state parts are almost impossible to diagnose unless you remove them from the gluey stuff they're packed in (I forget the name of that stuff) and diagnose down to the component level, so if you throw it in you're really just sort of guessing and hoping.
2) you really dont know if you completely fixed the entire problem.
Just my .$02
But I think I hi-jacked the thread...how is the 250?

 

[Mihylo33]

Yeah I'm curious as to the repair myself.

 

[2strokesteve89]

When you are doing work for others out of a shop, I subscribe to the "put in a known good part" way of doing it. One, your customer probably won't even understand why it took you so long to figure something out or appreciate it, and if you end up with it coming back, it comes out of your own backside in most cases. So if you are a production mechanic you do what you have to turn the cars out and free up the stall and get the customer back on the road with the fewest comebacks. Of course y ou do your best to correct what may cause premature failures, but anything past that is lost profit and if you are trying to stay at least even with flatrate, it feeds you and yours better to do it as mentioned.

Our customers pay for diagnostic time, I can tell you what's wrong for 132$ an hour, we charge more per hour for diagnostics as I have easlily over 10k tied up in scanners lab scopes, and other test equipment so I get payed for my time.