2 Stroke 1988 Honda Cr250r

Here is the original setup
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It is the example that is for sale I'm considering


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Had a few of each year through my hands but only 1 with an adjuster knob still on it! (88 i now know :)
Spent a few years parting out old dead reds and made good money but began feeling guilty about it as numbers of them here were dwindling and the prices started going up so stopped stripping them and built just 1 over 2 na half years, 2 years hunting everything I wanted for it and 6 months assembling it!
Never again to such a mad extent as it cost me £7K+ nevermind 1500 hours ish of my time and sold it for £3500
:bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk::doh::doh::doh: :smirk:
P.s. Loved nearly every second of it though!
 
Again if memory serves me right they are the same eye to eye but there may be a difference in size of the bottom shock bolt due to the bolts on the 89 being enlarged from the 88 as the linkage bolts were bending on the 88 but if you can check out the part numbers for both bottom shock bolts then you will see if they are the same part or not! In short I think they do fit but do the research on the bottom mount bolt and bearing for differences before you commit to an 89!
 
Looks like it is 90153-KS7-830 which crosses from 88-91, and all the way to 01 on 500r. Of course, I don't know if mine is one that had the issue corrected or not. If I understand correctly, most 88 models had the bolt issue fixed? If this is true, how does the hole on the shock compare to the old one? Hmmmm


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The top bolt is different though. And it looks like if I loctite this screw in, I should be able to adjust my shock. Right now all the screw does, or rather should do is hold on the knob. I still don't understand how the knob adjusts. There is very little for it to grab on to


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Looks like it is 90153-KS7-830 which crosses from 88-91, and all the way to 01 on 500r. Of course, I don't know if mine is one that had the issue corrected or not. If I understand correctly, most 88 models had the bolt issue fixed? If this is true, how does the hole on the shock compare to the old one? Hmmmm
The hole on the bottom of the shock is non existent, it's a fork that goes over the linkage knuckle with a straight hole on one side of the fork and a threaded hole on the other side that receives the bottom shock bolt once it's passed through the bearing in the knuckle! 88+89 bottom bolt as you say are the same part!





Bearing is different though.. confusing....


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I guess the outer radius of the bearing is larger on the 89 but the inner is the same to accommodate the same bolt!

The top bolt is different though. And it looks like if I loctite this screw in, I should be able to adjust my shock. Right now all the screw does, or rather should do is hold on the knob. I still don't understand how the knob adjusts. There is very little for it to grab on to


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I have never stripped out the rear shock internals and adjuster screw but I gotta think the screw threads into a valve which bottoms and tops out so when you first put the screw in the hole the first few turns are screwing into the valve then next few-couple of turns will be your adjustment and in reverse start turning the screw out the adjustment will topout then next turn will break the lock on the thread and start unscrewing the screw!?!?!?!?
Andy may be able to help here with this as I'm kinda guessing having never had one out! @ossagp Any ideas Andy? Or @SRAD97750 @Mihylo33 @2strokesteve89 :noidea::noidea::noidea:
 
Currently there is no adjusting taking place. From the way it looks, the screw doesn't adjust. There is a sleeve that the screw threads into, that looks to adjust. So the screw, threads into the adjuster. Missing the knob, it is currently useless. So if I put loctite on, the screw will then turn the adjuster... in theory


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Currently there is no adjusting taking place. From the way it looks, the screw doesn't adjust. There is a sleeve that the screw threads into, that looks to adjust. So the screw, threads into the adjuster. Missing the knob, it is currently useless. So if I put loctite on, the screw will then turn the adjuster... in theory


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Yeah but only if my theory is correct! Before cranking anything you should wait for more replies from other members who have experience splitting shocks!
 
The hole on the bottom of the shock is non existent, it's a fork that goes over the linkage knuckle with a straight hole on one side of the fork and a threaded hole on the other side that receives the bottom shock bolt once it's passed through the bearing in the knuckle! 88+89 bottom bolt as you say are the same part!






I guess the outer radius of the bearing is larger on the 89 but the inner is the same to accommodate the same bolt!


I have never stripped out the rear shock internals and adjuster screw but I gotta think the screw threads into a valve which bottoms and tops out so when you first put the screw in the hole the first few turns are screwing into the valve then next few-couple of turns will be your adjustment and in reverse start turning the screw out the adjustment will topout then next turn will break the lock on the thread and start unscrewing the screw!?!?!?!?
Andy may be able to help here with this as I'm kinda guessing having never had one out! @ossagp Any ideas Andy? Or @SRAD97750 @Mihylo33 @2strokesteve89 :noidea::noidea::noidea:


I honestly don't know. I always just tell ppl to go to Factory Connection and have their boingers set.
 
I have not the funds for someone else to pump my boinger.... repair I mean. Plus, I like to fidget and learn! Just like the power valves. Had no clue at first, now they work! It'll all come together. It's already come a good ways since I started.


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That's the answer I like to hear, experience is priceless in my book....no amount of money can buy you that.
 
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