Other 1993 Yamaha WR500 Teardown/Overhaul
- Thread starter SRAD97750
- Start date
lol
Some more fallen soldiers from the long desert hauls...
Struck a cow grate that was exposed about 12 inches of sharp blade and totalled the rim. It never lost air pressure or caused any imbalance but at this point I have a new Excel coming...
Never seen a rotor warp this badly and cause no issues at the lever...
Also WAY under minimum thickness. *Look at the shadows for reference*
-BIG DAN
Struck a cow grate that was exposed about 12 inches of sharp blade and totalled the rim. It never lost air pressure or caused any imbalance but at this point I have a new Excel coming...
Never seen a rotor warp this badly and cause no issues at the lever...
Also WAY under minimum thickness. *Look at the shadows for reference*-BIG DAN
And that moment you've all been waiting for... THE SHOPPING LIST
-Silver Excel Rim 18x2.50 $140.00
-Clutch cover Gasket $11.66
-OEM Front Rotor $59.99
-Steering Stem Bearings/Seals $26.95
-RK Chain 520x118 $22.99
-Moose Top End Gasket Set $15.95
-Swingarm Bearing Kit $62.24
-Linkage Bearing Kit $50.25
-Piston Pin Bearing $10.99
-Utra Heavy Duty Tube Front $30.67
-Ultra Heavy Duty Tube Rear $30.67
-Hardline Hour Meter $31.99
-MSR Chain Rollers X2 $30.00
-Front Rotor Bolt $0.47
-Rear Rotor Bolt $0.60
-Upper Shock Bearing/Seal $19.99
-Front Sprocket Steel 15T $8.99
-Rear Sprocket Steel 52T $17.00
-Exhaust Spring $2.99
-Uni Air Filter $25.99
-Neoprene Fork Seal Guards $9.99
-Sintered Front Brake Pads $9.25
-Maxxis Maxxcross SI 120/100-18 $86.99
-Chain Guide Slider $35.41
-Chain Slider $42.31
-Steering Stem Nut $15.59
-Steering Stem Nut $8.50
-Throttle Screw/Spring $20.69
-New Side Fairings $70.00
Total Estimate $896
Stuff to be inspected and possible purchases.
Piston/Rings
Reeds
Crank/Bearings
Intake Boot
-BIG DAN
-Silver Excel Rim 18x2.50 $140.00
-Clutch cover Gasket $11.66
-OEM Front Rotor $59.99
-Steering Stem Bearings/Seals $26.95
-RK Chain 520x118 $22.99
-Moose Top End Gasket Set $15.95
-Swingarm Bearing Kit $62.24
-Linkage Bearing Kit $50.25
-Piston Pin Bearing $10.99
-Utra Heavy Duty Tube Front $30.67
-Ultra Heavy Duty Tube Rear $30.67
-Hardline Hour Meter $31.99
-MSR Chain Rollers X2 $30.00
-Front Rotor Bolt $0.47
-Rear Rotor Bolt $0.60
-Upper Shock Bearing/Seal $19.99
-Front Sprocket Steel 15T $8.99
-Rear Sprocket Steel 52T $17.00
-Exhaust Spring $2.99
-Uni Air Filter $25.99
-Neoprene Fork Seal Guards $9.99
-Sintered Front Brake Pads $9.25
-Maxxis Maxxcross SI 120/100-18 $86.99
-Chain Guide Slider $35.41
-Chain Slider $42.31
-Steering Stem Nut $15.59
-Steering Stem Nut $8.50
-Throttle Screw/Spring $20.69
-New Side Fairings $70.00
Total Estimate $896
Stuff to be inspected and possible purchases.
Piston/Rings
Reeds
Crank/Bearings
Intake Boot
-BIG DAN
+1 on replacing the crank seals. Those twenty year old seals are leaking at least some for sure.
OK, I hate to say it, but this bike isn't worth much more than the total of that parts list.
The caliper is floating so it can move around to adsorb the warp in the brake disc. However, all that motion can wear the guide pins making for a sloppy mount. Just take a look.
What about suspension work. I'm sure that shock could use a rebuild. You have the skill to do it yourself if you so decide. Same goes for the forks. I would not be surprised if the bushings might need replacing.
OK, I hate to say it, but this bike isn't worth much more than the total of that parts list.
The caliper is floating so it can move around to adsorb the warp in the brake disc. However, all that motion can wear the guide pins making for a sloppy mount. Just take a look.
What about suspension work. I'm sure that shock could use a rebuild. You have the skill to do it yourself if you so decide. Same goes for the forks. I would not be surprised if the bushings might need replacing.
Just about any bike this age is only worth $800-1000 because it NEEDS all these bearings/seals/consumables changed.
It has lasted 200+ hours without a dime thrown at it. Taken me places I never thought existed.
So I figure, overhauling will make it last another 10-18 years! I would rather spend $2000 on a bike to make it SOLELY MINE including custom sprung/tuned suspension and an EFM autoclutch, rather than spend $4-5K on something newer. The newer bike would still need suspension work for my weight and all the desert bits I require (barkbusters, bash gaurds, gearing).
I also LOVE the way this powerplant lays down the 62HP and 50ft/lbs of torque. Like a 4T tractor. 260lbs wet. Inverted fully adjustable suspension, and disc brakes. 4.6 gal tank. I have the bike I WANT.
-BIG DAN
It has lasted 200+ hours without a dime thrown at it. Taken me places I never thought existed.
So I figure, overhauling will make it last another 10-18 years! I would rather spend $2000 on a bike to make it SOLELY MINE including custom sprung/tuned suspension and an EFM autoclutch, rather than spend $4-5K on something newer. The newer bike would still need suspension work for my weight and all the desert bits I require (barkbusters, bash gaurds, gearing).
I also LOVE the way this powerplant lays down the 62HP and 50ft/lbs of torque. Like a 4T tractor. 260lbs wet. Inverted fully adjustable suspension, and disc brakes. 4.6 gal tank. I have the bike I WANT.
-BIG DAN
Just about any bike this age is only worth $800-1000 because it NEEDS all these bearings/seals/consumables changed.
It has lasted 200+ hours without a dime thrown at it. Taken me places I never thought existed.
So I figure, overhauling will make it last another 10-18 years! I would rather spend $2000 on a bike to make it SOLELY MINE including custom sprung/tuned suspension and an EFM autoclutch, rather than spend $4-5K on something newer. The newer bike would still need suspension work for my weight and all the desert bits I require (barkbusters, bash gaurds, gearing).
I also LOVE the way this powerplant lays down the 62HP and 50ft/lbs of torque. Like a 4T tractor. 260lbs wet. Inverted fully adjustable suspension, and disc brakes. 4.6 gal tank. I have the bike I WANT.
-BIG DAN
This bike suits you Dan. It fits your style perfectly and you compliment it as well... the only other bike that might fit you is an ATK or mid 80's big bore Husky... Ride on brutha!
One thing about the engine. The YZ490 and by extension the WR500 were well known to have detonation issues that were almost impossible to jet out due to a less than optimum combustion chamber. There is a machining mod that makes it much better. Any idea if that mod was ever done on the head?
I sure did! There is a sharp ridge in the combustion chamber that leads to 'hotspots.'
Technically the difference between the WR500 and the YZ490 motor is that they lowered the compression and got rid of the detonation issues. I also performed the "ridge removal" to guarantee success.
I tried to overheat this bike a few times to get it to detonate... Never happened. She just runs better and better and better the hotter she gets. Jetting is SPOT ON. -BIG DAN
More teardown. Here I start into the engine part of the build. Took about 30 minutes to break down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MJYWTUClWo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVs8ZKgVBuo
Everything looks really clean inside. I am impressed with how well it has taken the desert dust.
2 Years ago when I rebuilt, due to a cracked piston skirt, I took some measurements.
03/05/2011
Big end bearing play 0.000" (Min/Max 0.000"/0.009")
Piston ring end gap 0.012" and 0.014" (Min/Max 0.010"/0.024")
New measurements taken
01/29/2013
Big end bearing play 0.004" (Min/Max 0.000"/0.009")
Piston ring end gap 0.027" and 0.032" (Min/Max 0.010"/0.024")
So, over time I have reached max wear on the rings. Time for new.
And the big end bearing is "moving" over time, so it's time to change it.
Piston looks new with a little soot built on the crown. Perfectly new demensions, and cylinder/piston clearance is still new spec.
Piston pin looks burned, I'll swap it, along with a new pin bearing of course. New clips to boot.
Cylinder looks great, I'll hit it with a hone prior to installing new rings.
Clutch basket is mildly notched, not sure what to think about it....
-BIG DAN
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MJYWTUClWo
Everything looks really clean inside. I am impressed with how well it has taken the desert dust.
2 Years ago when I rebuilt, due to a cracked piston skirt, I took some measurements.
03/05/2011
Big end bearing play 0.000" (Min/Max 0.000"/0.009")
Piston ring end gap 0.012" and 0.014" (Min/Max 0.010"/0.024")
New measurements taken
01/29/2013
Big end bearing play 0.004" (Min/Max 0.000"/0.009")
Piston ring end gap 0.027" and 0.032" (Min/Max 0.010"/0.024")
So, over time I have reached max wear on the rings. Time for new.
And the big end bearing is "moving" over time, so it's time to change it.
Piston looks new with a little soot built on the crown. Perfectly new demensions, and cylinder/piston clearance is still new spec.
Piston pin looks burned, I'll swap it, along with a new pin bearing of course. New clips to boot.
Cylinder looks great, I'll hit it with a hone prior to installing new rings.
Clutch basket is mildly notched, not sure what to think about it....
-BIG DAN