OK So your at sea level (basically). According to my service manual and these jetting specs are for a stock set up bike no aftermarket exhaust etc. You should be running a 380 main jett, and a 45 pilot jett. However you do have the FMF pipe and silencer which will change your jetting requirments. Mostly for the main jett. So your current 360 size main jett should be pretty close. You may want to try a couple of smaller size main jetts. I would suggest getting a 350, 340, and a 330 they dont that much each. But you should stick with the 360 or 350 for now because it is winter time. As for your pilot jet a 55 is way to big. I would pick up a 50, 45, and a 42.5 (I know its an odd ball size). Again they dont cost that much. As for your air screw setting that 1 1/2 turns out is a rule of thumb, or a good starting point. The thing with you air screw is the further in (right hand turn) the richer it will run at Idle, the further out (left hand turn the leaner it will run at Idle. I run mine no more than 2 full turns and no less than 3/4 of a turn. And when you adjust it do it while the engine is running and at operating temperature, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time. You did mention that your jett needle is set in the #3 position or in the middle of the 5 available clip position. That is a good factory setting for sea level, and should be the last carb adjustment you make.
I dont want to sound like Im talking down to Im just giving you information, and I dont really know what you do and do not know. So I have to explain this stuff like you dont know anything. It just works better this way so bear with me.
If it where my bike based off of the information that you have given me. I would start my putting new head pipe springs and a new pipe O-ring on it. This will prevent your (spooge) from leaking out of the head pipe and cylinder mating surface.
Then I would pull the carb, and reed cage off. Replace the reeds, pull the fuel bowl off, and replace the filter bowl gasket, and the gasket under top of the carb where the throttle cable goes in. Then I would take the floats off and the needle jet (not to be confused with the jet needle). The needle jet controls how much fuel enters the fuel bowl in conjunction with the floats. Inspect the needle jet, it will have two little wires that hold it on the float assembly. On the end of needle jet there is a tapered (pointed) tip that should be coated in rubber. There should be no groove around it where it sits in the hole. If there is any grooves or damage it needs to be replaced. Then I would double check the main jet size just to make sure it is a 360 main jet. Then I would remove the pilot jet and install a 45 size pilot jet. Reassemble carb. Double check your air screw take it our to 2 full turns from fully closed. Use fresh fuel and pre mix. Also install a new plug gapped to the correct gap spec. Before you actually try to kick start the engine turn your fuel on for about 5 min to fill the bowl. Choke it. Then do about 2-3 priming kicks (enough to just cycle the engine over). Then kick it for real. "It should start."
Once youve got it running you'll need to ride it to find where your running too lean or too rich. But we will cover that once youve gotten it running.
I dont want to sound like Im talking down to Im just giving you information, and I dont really know what you do and do not know. So I have to explain this stuff like you dont know anything. It just works better this way so bear with me.
If it where my bike based off of the information that you have given me. I would start my putting new head pipe springs and a new pipe O-ring on it. This will prevent your (spooge) from leaking out of the head pipe and cylinder mating surface.
Then I would pull the carb, and reed cage off. Replace the reeds, pull the fuel bowl off, and replace the filter bowl gasket, and the gasket under top of the carb where the throttle cable goes in. Then I would take the floats off and the needle jet (not to be confused with the jet needle). The needle jet controls how much fuel enters the fuel bowl in conjunction with the floats. Inspect the needle jet, it will have two little wires that hold it on the float assembly. On the end of needle jet there is a tapered (pointed) tip that should be coated in rubber. There should be no groove around it where it sits in the hole. If there is any grooves or damage it needs to be replaced. Then I would double check the main jet size just to make sure it is a 360 main jet. Then I would remove the pilot jet and install a 45 size pilot jet. Reassemble carb. Double check your air screw take it our to 2 full turns from fully closed. Use fresh fuel and pre mix. Also install a new plug gapped to the correct gap spec. Before you actually try to kick start the engine turn your fuel on for about 5 min to fill the bowl. Choke it. Then do about 2-3 priming kicks (enough to just cycle the engine over). Then kick it for real. "It should start."
Once youve got it running you'll need to ride it to find where your running too lean or too rich. But we will cover that once youve gotten it running.
'd me lol..
. I hope for his sake that it doesnt come to that. But like you and I experienced sometimes it is what it is. Im just glad that I can help somebody else out the same way I was helped out.
mmmmmm reeds....
