air leak
RM250 90 RM 250 Starting issue
- Thread starter drew76924
- Start date
No your air screw wouldnt make the engine rev that high at only 1 1/2 turns out. As for finding an air leak.......... Well it works best for me when the bike is running. I take a can of carb cleaner etc and spray every place that I think could be suspect. If you hit a spot with the cleaner that is sucking extra air the idle will change. Usually it will idle up, which could be a problem. Im curious as to why the bike wont kick start though. But as you mentioned you were concerned about the jetting set up I recommended. You got it started but it you had to bump start it and it idled out of control. It could be too could just be too lean on the pilot. Maybe like you mentioned your idle screw isnt set correctly.
At this point in time Im running out of ideas. Sometimes its hard to diagnose a problem with out actually being there.
maybe i'l mess with the idle screw it seems pretty far out... could the #3 position on the slide be wrong should i put it back at #4 where it was? FMF suggests running a 50 pilot... it should at least start on a 45
thinkin about just bringing it in to the dealer at this point i have no clue what else to do. theres no way theres a leak... i just put on new reed cage gaskets and new clamps around the carb.
thinkin about just bringing it in to the dealer at this point i have no clue what else to do. theres no way theres a leak... i just put on new reed cage gaskets and new clamps around the carb.
And "big dan" came down from the mountain where he was meditating and said unto the people who were troubled with machines of the earth, "be not troubled, for your checklist is small." He out stretched his hand twords the Carb and said, "clean this."It sounds like a seal problem to me though but if I were you I would be asking for "Big Dan's" opinion
"Who among you has cleaned a carburetor just to tear it apart and clean it once again? Patience rewards a man greatly."
Now, the big Dan gestures twords the petcock. "With ease and purity the fuel should flow."
Big Dan also pulled spark plugs from his garments and said, "if you bought the spark plug yesterday, it should be replaced today."
And the people rejoiced and went to the auto supply store and saved money. Amen.
Taking care to express the importance of intake boot integrity, big Dan proclaimed, "And you cannot detect a leak with your naked eye, take care children as to replace an old boot when it comes into question."
With that said, he ascended back to the mountain and hoped those with ears would heed.
I always wondered who wrote the bible.
Awesome Dan, if you wrote a book talking about dirt bikes in this context I'd read it in one day
In all seriousness,
99% of the time a bike won't start because of the carb being dirty, petcock stuck, spark plug ghosts, or an intake boot full of cracks. I've seen it a hundred times; clean the carb, open the petcock and dirty fuel clogs the jets immediately and you must clean it again.
If by chance you are actually the 1%, post up and we'll sort through this "explosion of random troubleshooting tips" thread you have here. -BIG DAN
99% of the time a bike won't start because of the carb being dirty, petcock stuck, spark plug ghosts, or an intake boot full of cracks. I've seen it a hundred times; clean the carb, open the petcock and dirty fuel clogs the jets immediately and you must clean it again.
If by chance you are actually the 1%, post up and we'll sort through this "explosion of random troubleshooting tips" thread you have here. -BIG DAN
You must have a telescope
I dont think that a crank seal would cause the bike to rev at a high idle like you explained. However a failing crank seal can add more oil into the cylinder creating a rich condition. As for your jett needle position in the #3 position is the recommended position for it to be in. Unless you have different a different taper (other than stock) needle. But even then that "shouldn't" be a factor as the jett needle doesnt even come into play untill about 1/4 throttle because it controls your mid range power from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle.
The seepage in the stator area could be a crank seal, but it could also be a case half gasket also. Im almost out of ideas for helping you trouble shoot this.
The seepage in the stator area could be a crank seal, but it could also be a case half gasket also. Im almost out of ideas for helping you trouble shoot this.
Do you have spark?
Crank seal if you have oil in the stator housing. It should be dry as a bone.
The crank seals are as crucial as the carburetor boot. If there is ANY leakage at temperature or cold, the mixture will be extremely lean. Lean mixture causes high/uncorrectable idle. I would throw the money at a total bottom end rebuild while you have it apart.
Not super expensive, but needs a few special tools (flywheel puller, clutch hold tool) and some serious patience. RMATV would have good prices and free shipping over $99.
Good luck buddy, hope everything works out.
Crank seal if you have oil in the stator housing. It should be dry as a bone.
The crank seals are as crucial as the carburetor boot. If there is ANY leakage at temperature or cold, the mixture will be extremely lean. Lean mixture causes high/uncorrectable idle. I would throw the money at a total bottom end rebuild while you have it apart.
Not super expensive, but needs a few special tools (flywheel puller, clutch hold tool) and some serious patience. RMATV would have good prices and free shipping over $99.
Good luck buddy, hope everything works out.