2 Stroke 94rm80 bogs/stalls 4th 5th gear

I just don't know, no crud in carb now, still wants to do it, I can go down road now a couple times before bluh bluh bluh. Dead.

Coil? I swear everything I've read where stator coil was bad is spot on same issue I'm having...


How long can you ride it in the back yard before it starts sputtering again?
How long can you ride it in the street at 1/4 throttle before it starts sputtering? 1/8 throttle?

I really don't think it's the coil. That's more of a jeep issue than it ever was a dirtbike issue.
 
Usually starts right back up after a couple kicks most time I gotta turn choke back on to restart it though. Then turn it off and it runs, but still bogs down even from first, wait a minute or so with it off, and then start it and it takes off like normal but quickly starts doing it again. If I let it sit half hour or longer it goes back to Normall again and starts right over again.

Right now it's making a krackling sound out of the exhaust when I try to accelerate and bogging instantly when I open throttle, like it ain't getting gas, I think I fucked up the float level trying fix the original issue.

Starting to think its a combo electric and carb issue
 
Check your exhaust pipe for crud. Varmets live to build nest in them and they can also collapse over time. This can allow the engine to start, but them blubber when the rpms come up.

Paw Paw
 
So when your saying it could be a bad seal your referring to the little rubber o ring seals in the crank case?

Also it's started smoking a lot I'm thinking more than its supposed to, white smoke, looking it up white smoke supposed to indicate burning coolant but I'm not missing any coolant. Jjustv flushed it and put in fresh coolant the other night, hasn't changed level since.

Changed carbs with another carb I got off Craigslist basically the same carb just doesn't have air screw, started idling more stable and it's a lot more respondant to turning the idle screw out, was actually able to lower the idle really low for once, with the other carb after a certain point moving the screw out it woulnts change at all, however same issue, bike runs great, flies down the road full power, no holding back, no hiccups whatsoever then suddenly out of nowhere same fucking thing. Stall,

I keep changing carb configuration up a bit, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse, but always the same thing stall, with the best carb setup I've had so far I managed about 5laps up the road and back, it was running so well I almost convinced myself it was working right, but on the last lap, it just cutout in 5th and coasted to a stop.

Vent hose is good.

A yea exhaust pipe, took it off and cleaned out power valve and exhaust port with carb cleaner, checked pipe, no blockage or crap in it, but funny thing happened today, I was idling the bike for a while fucking with idle screw and checked exhaust, there was a thick as oil coming out, so thick I could have mistaken it for grease, I had issues with it running to rich before and leaking runny oil out the exhaust before witch I fixed by moving the needle clip position but nothing like that before.
 
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You know what, looking at my exhaust smoke again just now maybe it does look like its got a blue tint to it, maybe it is a bad seal. Gonna drain oil again i guess and see if its dropped, just replaced it with 550ml of fresh oil last 5days.

Now to double check you guys are referring to the crank seal behind the clutch basket and then flywheel? If so thats a cheaper fix than i thought, can get a complete seal kit on ebay for 17bucks.

Anyway to do this without a flywheel puller, and how hard is it to do, i watched a video on youtube doesnt look too tricky other than locking yhe gears from spinning, when i changed the clutch i just put it in gear and held it in place with my hand. Seal seems abput the same procedure as clutch, just a few more steps.

Thanks for tips and info.
 
Ok well the bike is smoking exessivly, and that has been getting worse, thinking seal on clutch side then?

This what i need? http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-27mm-Motorcycle-Flywheel-Puller-For-1968-2014-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-/311254264677?fits=Model:RM80&hash=item4878332b65:g:73wAAOSwk5FUtM9l&_trkparms=pageci%3Ada5228b4-cef7-11e6-8215-74dbd180db23%7Cparentrq%3A527a3c2a1590a78873edd13cffc709d3%7Ciid%3A1

And these?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-RM-80-...3A527e33e91590a624ac92f66affcdc7b4%7Ciid%3A12

Im also thinking to get a complete gasket kit too, took thr reed cage out the other day and where the cases seal togther has a little lip, the clutch side case sits A slight bit higher in that spot than the magneto side, like sompne split the cases and put back together crooked, only a tiny though.
Thanks
 
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Ok so clutch side seal and magneto side, how can i tell if i gotta change the bearings as well? Need to kno before i start ordering.

Sounds like i may need to change both sidez anyways, good thing the kit comes with all seals for the engine, may as well replacw waterpump seal and such while im at it.

Hope i dont need to replace the gasket for the cases though.
 
Ok so clutch side seal and magneto side, how can i tell if i gotta change the bearings as well? Need to kno before i start ordering.

Sounds like i may need to change both sidez anyways, good thing the kit comes with all seals for the engine, may as well replacw waterpump seal and such while im at it.

Hope i dont need to replace the gasket for the cases though.

There will be a knocking sound coming from the motor.
 
Just drained oil, not a drop missing, oil looks clean as the day i put it in, still fresh. No coolant missing, no coolant in oil,

I dont know wats the issue?

??????????????????????????
 
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