2 Stroke Clutch Lifter Rod.
- Thread starter CYKSxx7
- Start date
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If you're not willing to buy the tools needed to do the job properly, then either don't work on it or be prepared to break and screw up a bunch of stuff.
Amen to that brother!
My guess is that OP is gonna reply with a photo of a clutch push-rod removed from the bike...
Sir's First I'd like to try the 27mm Socket with a 1/2" Impact Driver. Maybe lock up the Back wheel and Hit the Driver. If that fails I'll call Auto Part's Store to lend a Air Tool. If that fails and NO tool I'll make a trip to HFT. Thank You Sir's for all the Info....
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Sir's Well I tried an 1/2" Impact Hammer (Impact Driver) the Inner Pressure Plate or the NUT did not Budge with the Clutch Holder. I do not want to Twist one of the MAIN SHAFTS. The NUT is Frozen. It might need (Torching) Heat. I do not know whether I should Have it done or do the Heat myself. What do you think ????
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Wouldn't break free with "air wrench"? I would pay the money for a good torch and buy it some mapgas instead of propane if you want to try heat. If you are doing it simply to get the lifter rod out, I can't see or remember from the jillion times I have had a cr250 apart how removing the nut and basket is going to help you there, unless you plan a complete teardown.
!Sirs I'm not Planning to Tear it down, I'm trying to get too the Lifter Rod (a.k.a. Pushrod) it's jammed in the Shaft. If I disassemble the Clutch (which should be simple, I've done it a Dozen or more times) It will be in plain sight. Like this Thread (Post) Its a long story.
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I'm guessing you tried long nose pliers/grips?
Wouldn't surprise me to take a 3' pipe and lean on that nut hard enough to actually break the hub. It's obvious that someone doesn't know what they are doing when they put sealant where it doesn't belong. I see petroleum based sealer on rubber compression fittings or threads with plastic ferrules and I just shake my head. Idiots think they're doing "extra good" when they are doing the exact opposite. If you're putting loctite on something bigger than an M10 or 12 you had better rethink the application. It has a tabbed washer for a reason numbnut
Sir's Tried Needle Nose Pliers, tried putting the Bike on it's side and Hitting the area of the Clutch Lever (Cable Lifter) w/a Rubber Mallet. The Lifter Rod (Pushrod) should just come out of the Main Shaft. I thought by taking the Clutch apart I could get at the Lifter Rod (Pushrod). But now I'm having trouble taking the Clutch assembly (Locknut) apart. I could Torch the Lock Nut, buy a Propane torch (I've been wanting one for a while now). And Sweat it loose. Do you advise I do this. Thank you Sir's for all the help...................
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Sirs, This is the First time I'm in this Bike (86 CR250R) it was a Gift too me as a Project. I know it should be that simple to remove the Lifter Rod (Pushrod) Lock Washer, Locknut, Disc's and Pressure Plates. I've done it before a Few Times on Bikes I have had in the Past. I also know better than to use Thread locker on Bolts no larger than M8 x 135 x 1.25 x with a Low Grade Bolt or nut. Then over Torque them. You get the Idea. I never use the stuff. I'm trying to get the Pushrod Out, now I'm going crazy trying to remove the Clutch (with Heat) to get at the Rod which should come right out. I'll try to get my hands on a 1/2" Air Impact wrench. If that fails, what type service would Torch it for me ? An Auto Repair Shop, Machinist ?
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Was there a little ball bearing in the lift cap? I've had a few cr250 engines apart and found the little bearing in various stats of disintegration so it could/could it be a piece of the little bearing jamming it in??????
Sir, Yes the Steel Ball was in the Lifter, It Sink's to the Bottom underneath the Drilled Hole in the Lifter. The Washer under the Inner Pressure Plate is in, allowing the Plate too spin. When I received the Bike there was No Clutch Perch or Lever. So I purchased a New one. This is how I found this Problem with the Clutch. Maybe next weekend I'll buy a 1/2" Impact Wrench. I'm working on the Bike in Frame, it's easier to work on this way.
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I'm not so sure that hole in the end of the rod is pre-drilled! If my memory serves me correct
, the rod I last renewed had no dimple or hole at all but as The emoji said my memory isn't peach perfect! Also the actuator arm seems a little worn on the push shoulder so this combined with the divot on the push rod would have combined to make the clutch tight, last push rod I pulled out of one was blue at the bearing end with almost no bearing left
Being that the hole is there on the end of the rod you could try a 2.5 or 3mm hss drill bit in the end of the rod and hopefully the drill will bite and dislodge the rod! You may snap the bit though so the heavier bit you can use the better!
, the rod I last renewed had no dimple or hole at all but as The emoji said my memory isn't peach perfect! Also the actuator arm seems a little worn on the push shoulder so this combined with the divot on the push rod would have combined to make the clutch tight, last push rod I pulled out of one was blue at the bearing end with almost no bearing leftBeing that the hole is there on the end of the rod you could try a 2.5 or 3mm hss drill bit in the end of the rod and hopefully the drill will bite and dislodge the rod! You may snap the bit though so the heavier bit you can use the better!
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