2 Stroke Clutch Lifter Rod.
- Thread starter CYKSxx7
- Start date
I thought the rod was jammed not mobile! HSS is high speed steel, was hoping you could turn it out!
The blued rod. Pulled was warped but not to an extent that it wouldn't come out!
The blued rod. Pulled was warped but not to an extent that it wouldn't come out!
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I wrote it, and it's giving me a Headache, Bike was given to me as a Project, less a Clutch Perch and Lever. I installed a New Lever, and installed it to the Clutch, only to find it didn't work properly. I had the Right side Cover off (working on the Governor). I thought I'd take or disassemble the Clutch see why the New Lever was failing. Got the Outer Pressure Plate off and the Lifter and Steel Ball out. That was when I found the Lifter Rod (Pushrod) would not come out of the Shaft, Jammed, Inside but Spinning, slight motion. I tried to get the Pushrod out. So I disassembled the rest of the Clutch to find the Locknut Washer and Lock Nut are Jammed, Frozen or need Torching too come OFF. I'm sorry if this Post are running a muck, maybe write it as Ended............
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Why confusing? Trying to eliminate possibilities that Ive encountered with similar era cr engines!k
The engine I parted out with the blued( by heat) push rod came from a bike that I suspected had a moment on its left side where the engine/frame/rider had a big impact screwing up all left through to right side controls and mechanisms, certainly made sense looking at the bike at the time anyway, clutch perch, lever and bars were all screwed, reckon clutch got pulled as it hit the deck and the actuator arm went too far and got a bit jammed!
my bottom line is after taking lots of cr's apart is this: If your prime purpose for disassembling the clutch basket further is to retrieve that lifter rod, I predict a real disappointment when the entire clutch assembly is removed as I can't see how you will increase ANY access to the rod. My advice is to reinstall the lifter crank and see if you can push the rod back to the installed arm in the ignition cavity and move it back and forth by using the lever and pushing the rod back with another rod, punch, phillips head etc. You can easily repair those cranks buy building the metal back up via brazing or welding and filing to fit. You lose a lot of angle and leverage when those wear. If you can get the rod to move I would lay it over and use your favorite spray rust buster to try to get it to move easily. I would not be afraid to add ball bearings or bb's etc on the ignition side and use that as a spacer(s) to move the lifter rod further out for removal. Of course if you can get satisfactory free movement the need to take it out may be over anyway.
Sir, Yes you were correct, I'm disassembling the Clutch Pressure Plate, Center Plate and Possibly the Outer Housing, to get access to the Lifter Rod (a.k.a. Pushrod) which will not come out of the Main Shaft (I believe it's the First Gear Shaft). After I remove the Clutch assembly (which should be that simple) the Lifter Rod (Pushrod) should be in plain site. Or enough room to grasp it and see why it's not coming out of the Shaft. BUT Now I can't Remove the LOCKNUT, the person whom had the Bike before me Cranked the NUT On. Thank you Sir's your advice means a lot too me.
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I think your theory on the rod being "in plain site" is incorrect. That is the shaft that the nut you need removed is threaded to. You can take the nut off, then remove the basket and that shaft will remain RIGHT WHERE IT IS, still covering the rod you want to remove. If you are simply removing to rod to see it in it's entirety you will still have to deal with it being stuck. If you just want a functional clutch you may wish to consider my approach.
I go away for the weekend and came back expecting this thing to be laying on the ground and problem solved. After re-reading I see my error. He said he tried the 1/2" impact hammer, then @ossagp asked about an air wrench. I hadn't gotten the clue yet and assumed
he used one of the things seen below. But he tried the 1/2" impact driver. That thing you whack with a hammer, while having a buddy hold the clutch tool it looks like. It was predictable that wasn't gonna work. So my bad.
What I was saying is that nut wouldn't stand a chance with
one of these;_________________and some of this;
Not in my garage anyway.
So is this rod out yet?
he used one of the things seen below. But he tried the 1/2" impact driver. That thing you whack with a hammer, while having a buddy hold the clutch tool it looks like. It was predictable that wasn't gonna work. So my bad.
What I was saying is that nut wouldn't stand a chance with
one of these;_________________and some of this;
Not in my garage anyway.
So is this rod out yet?
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Sir's, I planning to purchase a 1/2" Impact Wrench over the weekend, it might get the Locknut Off. If, that's if that does not work, Should I try "lightly" heating the Locknut with a Torch (It might have Loctite on it ?). I'll use a mild detergent to flush the Transmission so there's no trace of Oil. Does this sound likely or NO... I've been using this type Torch for ? years now. Thank you for Listening and staying with me On this.....
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Ok, then are you going to get back to getting the lifter rod out? FYI, I have never had a problem with lighting motor oil when heating with any kind of torch. You might want to clean off the immediate area. Not to be flippant, but I really don't think it has sunk in that removing the nut is not going to make that rod any more accessible to you than it is now, unless you plan to break the end of the shaft off to get the nut off. Heck, then you can probably use a tow chain to pull it out.
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Cxyz as said, you should not need the hub and basket off to pull the rod, however, you should be ABLE to get the basket off just as a fundamental service. I suppose after you remove the basket you will have more rod to bite on for removal. Don't worry about flaming oil. Do to have a breaker bar? I certainly hope you haven't been hitting that with an impact driver. Heat that bad boy initial 20 sec and try it and 10 sec intervals between subsequent tries. It will come off
Haha, I am trying to figure out HOW the nut, and basket being removed will make it easier to get at the rod which is inside the shaft. I might want the basket off so i didnt damage it when I welded a piece of angle to the rod, mounted and eye and used the overhead to pull the rod out (or lift the bike to the gantry).
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