450F Does it make big difference if specs is barely off???
- Thread starter TheChasers
- Start date
Which will be 1.70,that should be ok right? been checking on ebay and only can find them in .05 increments, dnt know where to get odd numbers from.So at all times I use the higher number of the specifications?Thanks alot...Sometimes it baffles me how much help I can receive just from a forum,this is my 1st one I ever signed up for,and whether you,or anyone else that lends a helping hand knows it,people like myself grately appreciate you guys,the time yall take out of the day that ultimate belongs to you and ur family,that time just to respond to a person somewhere off in the world u will never meet,that ish is amazing to me.So once Im as experienced and knowledgeable as the rest,I will "pay it forward".Because sometime a person gets so confused and frustrated at times,we b lost and ultimately end up getting "raped" by taking bike/car to a shop...Thanks again.
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yes, I simply bought the hot cams valve shim kit, cost me $60 if I remember right
Might be reaching,but hey,am i able to just to .05 together with .06 and .07 to make .11 and .12??
Get a two stroke
Lol,few people suggested this to me,but i enjoy a challenge and right now enjoying the 4 stroke so I will stick with it and just learn this engine...#no_easy_way_out
Lol,few people suggested this to me,but i enjoy a challenge and right now enjoying the 4 stroke so I will stick with it and just learn this engine...#no_easy_way_out
That's cool.....somebody on here has to be the smart ass though. But really you'll get all the help you need here to get you on your way.
If you mean with the feeler gauges, then yes. Now you're using your noggin!
More than happy to help someone who is willing to listen. -BIG DAN
Long day at work,but came home with hot cam shim kit,about to tackle this right now.Yea ima go ahead and change all,because my intake side was at .10 and thats the lowest in spec,as well as that .20 u spoke about.
Insight please,anyone..completed installation of new shims
Exhaust specs .20- .25
Intake specs .10- .15
My current exhaust valve clearance,upper .22,lower .21
My current intake valve clearance,upper .15,middle .14,lower .13...I know they are all within specs,but from others experience,am I good with this,are these specs good to go???
For the lower exhaust,I had to have a shim that was either 1.71 to be .25 or 1.72 to b .24,not really experience with "sanding..and I didnt want to go 1.70 shim because then I would of been out of specs at .26,so i went with shim 1.75 that gave me .21.I can somewat fit .22 in there but gotta force it in more
Yes. Good to go but if you are not able to shim more then that tells me it's possibly time for valves. Atleast that's what I'm reading. Without being there in person I can't say. You might have to get your manual out and dig a little deeper.
I'm sure you meant to say tight, and to have them on the tight end of spec increases the possibility of overlap between valves. I've read that race tuners sometimes run them tight to optimize duration, but these engines are inspected more often than most, and I haven't read of any evidence that seat or cam lobe wear is accelerated by being on the "loose end". In theory maybe, but the valve face isn't being gently placed in the seat by any means with tighter clearance. Of course, I'm no expert, and have limited tuning experience, that's just how I grasp the concept. Also, counterpoint dialogue will help me to understand further, so I welcome any opinions, advice and correction of my point of view on the subject.