I have seen large twins and singles run from zero lash to .008" to give a specific effect. in a rockerless engine you don't have the same float and bounce effect by running loose that you do with rockers. with the shim over buckets popular on jap 4's of the 70's and 80's you could float the shims loose enough and get them to bounce back and strike the spring hard enough to compress the spring a bit and gain even more clearance and then the next cycle turns the shim into a missile that comes out the valve cover in the extreme cases. I only saw that in pictures. the shim under keeps things in place better, but the same affects from inertia are still there and the high rpm nature of the F's we have now make me want to stay with what the cam builder suggests on both ends.
450F Does it make big difference if specs is barely off???
- Thread starter TheChasers
- Start date
Not experienced or educated enough about machanics of all this so dont fully understand ur statement...are u sayin its better to run tight instead of loose?If u have time,can u please explain to me the pros and cons of running tight as well as the pros and cons runnung loose,as well as possible effects on engine,if im not askin too much,just tryin to learn all this from experienced riders.
Specs are within range,but feel a lil loss in power throught gears,at least thats wat im thinkin im feeling but pretty sure.Just need a lil insight on proper timing,i seen after in my manual where it stated to not turn crankshaft while installing cams,but i recall turning crankshaft while holding chain for some reason,dnt recall why though,as well as turning crankshaft a lil clockwise,bekause TDC marking seemed to move a lil out of place during installing cams,so i would turn clockwise a lil even though manual said to turn counterclockwise,which i would do but when it would move that inch off i would just go clockwise instead of going all the way around again.i know im makin mistakes so dnt bash me,learning process to and for me,just tryin to get it right....so
I was reading a lil online and i see one forum where they are sayin 7 links are supposed to b between the 2 12oclock markings,is this correct?will post screen.so wat will be the best way to reset/correctly set timing and verify its all good???
the marks do seem to move a little sometimes. that comes with the chain always having a little slack in it. as you rotate any engine that will happen. the key is that the marks line up when you reach them when moving in the direction of operating rotation. you will find that brand new bikes even vary, and you will find people who build engines for the serious racers constantly "degreeing" cams to get the timing they want. It is fun to take a stock rig that y ou worked with that way and beat the crap out of something with lots of money spent on it, believe me. It does look like yours "landed" wrong. time to redo. I cant see the dot on the intake side cam.
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Picture i posted wasnt of mine,was acreen4 shot from online to show the statement of someone sayin 7 links should b in between.I havent took picture after installin mine,but i did take a picture before taking apart,(will post )even though im not a TDC in picture,it seems to b only 6 links in between my 2 markings,but that was the way i got bike and bike ran good,at least seeming to me..so is the 7 link true even though manual doesnt say anything about that,only about having the 9 oclock markings lined up with crank head case?did i mess timing or anything else up while turning crankcase with cams off?essentially moving chain that way???am i supposed to attempt to get 7 links in between 12 oclock markings?
mine,before i ever touch cams..yes on the 7 between marks, again if you want factory timing. go too far one way or the other and you get a valve meeting piston.
Dnt too much care about factory, just to properly set timing so i can get back same hp i seemed to have before i replaced shims.just caree to have good running bike so watever it takes to do work correctly