RM250 rm250 starting issues

2smoke

2smoke

I appreciate the offer ossapg. But Im sure youve heard the adage "If it aint broke, dont fix it" Thats kinda where Im at with the TMX on my Honda. It works good and Ive already gotten it figured out for what it requires fore seasonally jetting.

Oh and I do believe it was the PWK not the PJ that I was being told about to replace the TM or TMX. But like I mentioned earlier. I just didnt want to have to figure out jetting on another carb for my bike that didnt come with that type carb.
 
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ossagp

I have quite few of both. Keihin got a good slide design when they did the pwk. If I had a newish mikuni on anything I wouldnt be spending money to change it. the 2001 honda came with a mikuni and everyone wanted to put a pwk on them. we had both, and for general riding the mikuni didnt lose a thing to the keihin that came on our 2000. ran clean and started great. it just didnt have the needle that we ended up with from the factory.
 
2smoke

2smoke

I did notice that the TMX on my 01 Honda was jetted way to rich. And all the research Ive done indicates the same. I played with the idea of doing a JD jetting kit for my carb. But had a hard time justifying $75 for a pair of jetting needles and jets that I already had on hand. So I just kept going more lean on the main jet and moving the clip on the needle till I get what I want. So the clip stays in the #2 position spring through fall. Gets moved back and forth from #2-#3 in the winter depending on the temp of the day. And main jets according to the season.

But I agree with your statement about the TM and TMX performance. When they are jetted and adjusted correctly I have zero issues with starting. Doesnt matter if its cold or hot outside. Or if the engine is cold or hot. It just goes. And as for overall performance. I really dont ride my bike to its full potential. Its got more power than I actually use on tap. But its there when I ask for it.
 
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ossagp

we bought a 2001 cylinder and carburetor for the 2000 in 2001. We are cold and the atmosphere is dense here and dry in the fall and winter. the stock jetting wasnt too far off for that. I recall playing with some needles and jets. We were back and forth between the keihin and the mikuni. for me, the stock reed box and the mikuni worked well for the trail. for a man 30 years younger who raced it on sandy mx tracks, his final pick was the 01 cylinder and the 00 carb (keihin) with a different needle than stock. he also liked the v force reeds and a procircuit pipe. I liked the stock pipe and reeds better for cross country and trail. he used my set up for a very long and very wet cross country where he bested all the KTM's present (course laid out by the local KTM dealer), losing to a Honda 4 stroke XR. He wished he was riding my xr before the day was over. (He wouldnt go as far to say that he would have won the event overall, but he did say he picked the wrong bike for the tight trails.)
 
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ossagp

I have a friend who I used to loan all my bikes to back in the 60's and 70's. he had lots of jets and patience. claims to this day he doesnt know anything about jetting. but mine always came back starting good and IDLING clean. He never rode anything hard, so it was a safe bet. Starting and idling are very important on a trail bike or street bike to me.
 
2smoke

2smoke

I tried the Boyesen RAD valve on my bike. Huge gains in power but it was almost unmanageable for the type of riding I do. Yes Im a desert guy who wouldnt want that type of power, right? But Im high mountain desert and I do twisty technical trails and single track. Sometimes we even go up into the Sierras and ride in the trees. It was just too much. So my perfect set up is the stock reed box with the the Boyesen carbon reeds. FMF Gnarly, and Turbine Core II can to keep it legal on BLM land. I also run a 50 or 52 tooth in the back to help with the bottom end grunt to carry the front tire over waterfall rocks. And for up hill starts on climbs. It lacks some legs on the top end. But thats not where I ride.
 
brokenbrook

brokenbrook

ossagp:
I can't think of any of the mikunis that I used that were inferior to a pj with some time on it. I got my first one in 1988. It is still here in a bucket with several others if you want one of those "superior" caburetors to replace an "inferior" tmx etc. for the guys that sign on to never wanting it to idle they can be made workable by just screwing the enrichenor down hard. no idle and no fouling when you need to coast in gear as in downhill etc. Compared to the PWK it is total junk IMO. Pay some postage and I will send you one.
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yeah the bike loads up pretty fast if it aint wfo it is not happy.
 
brokenbrook

brokenbrook

2smoke:
I tried the Boyesen RAD valve on my bike. Huge gains in power but it was almost unmanageable for the type of riding I do. Yes Im a desert guy who wouldnt want that type of power, right? But Im high mountain desert and I do twisty technical trails and single track. Sometimes we even go up into the Sierras and ride in the trees. It was just too much. So my perfect set up is the stock reed box with the the Boyesen carbon reeds. FMF Gnarly, and Turbine Core II can to keep it legal on BLM land. I also run a 50 or 52 tooth in the back to help with the bottom end grunt to carry the front tire over waterfall rocks. And for up hill starts on climbs. It lacks some legs on the top end. But thats not where I ride.
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yeah i i got the rad valve i like it :wink:. iam prolly going to get a flywheel weight in the near future. this rm could use some low end grunt lol.
 
bobkyle2

bobkyle2

brokenbrook:
hows the weight treating you kinda curious. have more of an engine effect like the big bores?
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Well, i love it... But its a big difference in how the bike revs.

Before you could flick the throttle, and the bike would either do what i wanted... or it wouldn't lol.... With the fww, it will just tractor....Alot of the throttle flick is gone. Took me awhile to get used to it. I killed the bike alot.

I got a 10 oz stealthy, Maybe a smaller one would have been better.
 
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ossagp

if yours is loading up unless rev'd the first place i would look is the float needle and setting. if it has the pj carburetor or other keihin it sets at 16mm more than likely. then jet from there. make sure your jetting is close to stock if you reset the float though. it is reall common for a po to jet leaner and leaner as the float level raises. then if you set it back to the proper float setting, the critter runs very lean.
 
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