Other 1999 WR400F

2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Trfsrfr:
I went to the track 6 weeks ago and broke my bike (and my arm).

After the crash riding back to the truck It would go in and out of 1st gear, but thats it. Would never hit 2nd or higher.
I was hoping that I would pull the cover and find a broken shift drum cam piece or something similar (and inexpensive) but that didn't happen. I didn't find anything wrong with it.

So I started spinning the shift drum and it appeared to go into all the gears.
Have any of y'all experienced something similar? If I had a broken shift fork would it go into the gears as I just stated?

I really dont want to split the cases cuz thats $1000.00, but I wasn't expecting to NOT find anything wrong either. Normally when I break something, its usually very obvious whats broke.

What am I missing here?
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$1,000 to split the case? It's only 30$ or so for gaskets.
 
Trfsrfr

Trfsrfr

2strokesteve89:
Sure, if it needs all that. If it doesn't it all goes back. But that's just me, I don't replace good parts.
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Thats cool, I can appreciate that. But I will spend more for peace of mind and replace wear items that are hard to get at just because I'm there, and then I use this for problem diagnosis in the future. Easy to rule out a potential problem area if I know when I replaced those parts.

If I'm opening it up, its to fix a shift broken shift fork.
So just some basics-
shift fork - 72.35
Cam chain - cuz I'm there - $43.12
main bearings - cuz I'm there - 93.16
head gasket - 48.89
oil pump rotor - cuz i'm there - 27.72
ring set - cuz i'm there - 35.11
intake valves - 67.95
exhaust valves - 88.56
valve seals - 39.85

Sub-total for the above is 516.71, not mentioned are seals, oil/coolant, etc., and whatever else I may need or forgot about.
So maybe not $1000.00, but still no drop in the bucket either. I definitely want to know for sure if something is broken internally before I open her up. I'll put her back together tomorrow and recheck everything again.
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Trfsrfr:
Thats cool, I can appreciate that. But I will spend more for peace of mind and replace wear items that are hard to get at just because I'm there, and then I use this for problem diagnosis in the future. Easy to rule out a potential problem area if I know when I replaced those parts.

If I'm opening it up, its to fix a shift broken shift fork.
So just some basics-
shift fork - 72.35
Cam chain - cuz I'm there - $43.12
main bearings - cuz I'm there - 93.16
head gasket - 48.89
oil pump rotor - cuz i'm there - 27.72
ring set - cuz i'm there - 35.11
intake valves - 67.95
exhaust valves - 88.56
valve seals - 39.85

Sub-total for the above is 516.71, not mentioned are seals, oil/coolant, etc., and whatever else I may need or forgot about.
So maybe not $1000.00, but still no drop in the bucket either. I definitely want to know for sure if something is broken internally before I open her up. I'll put her back together tomorrow and recheck everything again.
Click to expand...

I can see that, I guess having a garage full of smokers I forget about all the extra moving parts in those thumpers....$$$.
 
Trfsrfr

Trfsrfr

I learned real fast with the kxf250 I got, you can rebuild three 2T's to one 4T.
I like the low-end grunt, but man they're pricey when they break.
 
Trfsrfr

Trfsrfr

It took a little longer than expected to get out into the garage again but I think I know why it stopped shifting...

1st - it shifts into all the gears at the drum with the rear wheel spinning. I do have to spin the other shaft a bit up around 3rd or 4th gear otherwise it'll get stuck in the middle, but I assume this is normal???

2 - I reinstalled the shift lever and guide and I noticed it still wouldn't spin the drum, so I removed again and did a real close inspection of that set of pieces and found that the shift plate has a wallered out hole in it (see below), the shift pawls have a very slight twist in them and there are some light nicks on the shift lever.
100_3275r.JPG
 
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