Other 1999 WR400F

I like being a little extra cautious with these things I guess. The KLX tensioner allowed it to skip teeth. With the manual tensioner it's fixed, and I like that.
Who knows what the history of the bike is, though I'm already seeing a bit of it with the wrong rear brake rotor issue I fixed.
It's like a book, you dont really know anything until you invest some time in it.
 
I like being a little extra cautious with these things I guess. The KLX tensioner allowed it to skip teeth. With the manual tensioner it's fixed, and I like that.
Who knows what the history of the bike is, though I'm already seeing a bit of it with the wrong rear brake rotor issue I fixed.
It's like a book, you dont really know anything until you invest some time in it.
I'd ask the question of how worn out was the timing chain? was it stretched beyond the point the auto tensioner could keep it properly tight?
Just saying that theirs other parts to that system
 
Quick questions-
Brought the bike to the track this past weekend and never got it out of neutral.
As soon as I started her up and she started puking coolant out the waterpump weephole.

Is this just a 30 minute replace 2 seals kind of job, or is there more I should know?

And, If the seals aren't available before I get back to the track this weekend, can I maybe reposition one of the seals to cover the weephole and make it work til the new ones get here?
Also, what about the oil?
I just put new oil in it the day before and I'm gonna be extra pissed if I gotta change that again too...
 
Nah bleeding from the weeper keeps you from having problems. Just lets you know the shaft isn't sealed well and bleeds out instead of squeezing past seal #2 into the oil. After sitting a while they can
do that. I'd just replace the one behind the impeller. I Make a point to kick mine over a couple times a week just to keep things moving. When I sold the 125 after sitting a while I started er up and it dripped coolant. Said fuck, pulled the ad, ordered a seal, and the next time I started it to run dry the bowl it didn't drip. Hmm turned the gas back on and started it and let run and no problems. Several subsequent test runs and shit were all good. Gave the seal to the new owner.
 
Cool. I was looking at the fiche and wasn't really able to see whether or not I had to remove the whole side cover to replace the seals or not, so thats a relief. The manual wasn't much help either.
I was hoping it was gonna be an inexpensive quick fix. That puts me back at the track this weekend with my raincheck to give the ol' WR a good flogging.
I am however leaking fuel from the float bowl overflow so I am thinking I'm gonna have to pull the float valve and unstick it first.
And depending on how much of a PITA that is, I may even get a wild hair up my ass and jet it for the 5100ft elevation in Prescott Valley.
They have a hare scramble going on up there next weekend and I've never done one before, so I'm considering that.
We'll see what happens with the water pump and track day on Saturday first...
 
Cool. I was looking at the fiche and wasn't really able to see whether or not I had to remove the whole side cover to replace the seals or not, so thats a relief. The manual wasn't much help either.
I was hoping it was gonna be an inexpensive quick fix. That puts me back at the track this weekend with my raincheck to give the ol' WR a good flogging.
I am however leaking fuel from the float bowl overflow so I am thinking I'm gonna have to pull the float valve and unstick it first.
And depending on how much of a PITA that is, I may even get a wild hair up my ass and jet it for the 5100ft elevation in Prescott Valley.
They have a hare scramble going on up there next weekend and I've never done one before, so I'm considering that.
We'll see what happens with the water pump and track day on Saturday first...


It should just pull out after you remove the cover.
 
Ive heard the wood screw method, but never tried it. I drill a tiny hole and slide in an otherwise worthless micro allen wrench. yank with vice grip.
 
Bearing, impeller and shaft, 2 seals. FTW!
I'm looking for those parts now, case gasket, clutch cover gasket too.

Is there a way to do this without removing the oil? Lean the bike on its side maybe?
I got $15.00 worth of brand new oil in there.
 
I might have bad news for you. I ignored (because I didn't know to check) the wobble until it got to the point to when I went to put the cover on one day, I went to spin the impeller to line up the male/female flat sided circles, the cover went on, and the impeller kept spinning. Yes Virginia, the wobble ate up the hole were the impeller shaft goes. When you examine what piece that hole is located on, you'll cry.
 
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