It's not a problem with them breaking as much as it is the fingers getting notched up to where the plates or fibers, I can't recall which ride on the basket fingers right now, won't move freely back and forth.
RM250 rm250 starting issues
- Thread starter bobkyle2
- Start date
ive got a problem with my clutch... i havent even had time to look at it... but i know the adjust on the perch is adjust all the way out....and while its in gear running its hard to get out of gear... and when its cold out the bike wanders forward.... (im thinking that is prolly just the fluid).... and if you pull in the clutch with it shut off the rear tire does not free wheel... if you want to roll it without the engine turning over you have to put it in nutreal...
FML.....got my front brakes on no prob...got the fluid drained...realized i got DOT 3... i think its supposed to be dot4??? (ill run in get some in a min) unless the 3 will work
rear brakes.....one of the brake pins will not come out...i completly mangeld one allen wrench and the second one started to strip... so i got the whole thing complelty off now... going to take it to the shop at my work... and try to get it out...any ideas????
Noticed when i drained the rear brake fluid that it was like motor oil... completly black.. never seen any like that
got everything buttond up on the carb and air box... and reeds....
ive decided im going to drain the fuel and add fresh fuel and find some non synthetic oil...and im going to run and pick up another plug or two if i can find one at a parts shop....
found out the rear tire is dryrotted comepletly...
crankcase fill plug is stripped... ill order a new one tonight
ok thats guys 
i tried everything couldnt get it out... i welded a allen wrench to it and it kept coming off... so i said the hell with it ... threw it down... when i threw it down the pads fell off....so i wiggled the new ones in there..... it was a bish getting it back together but there on... just gotta bleed them tomorow....and gotta drain and bleed the front....
picked up some 10w40 specifically made for a wet clutch.... going to drain the crankcase oil and change it..... get everything changed....
...........................................................................................
and got a change of plans on the motor.... depending if i feel like it i might start it up tomorow and see if it runs differnt from before.... i might not...i might go ahead and pull the top end....... ill order the parts as soon as i find out what the bore is...
and that muffler packing schitt is for the birds.... it sucked....... i got some extra money so depending on how much goes into the engine and how much for the klx.... i might go ahead and order a whole pipe and silencer....
well thanks guys for helping me and as aslways.... stop by and say hi... and tell me your thoughts
i tried everything couldnt get it out... i welded a allen wrench to it and it kept coming off... so i said the hell with it ... threw it down... when i threw it down the pads fell off....so i wiggled the new ones in there..... it was a bish getting it back together but there on... just gotta bleed them tomorow....and gotta drain and bleed the front....
picked up some 10w40 specifically made for a wet clutch.... going to drain the crankcase oil and change it..... get everything changed....
...........................................................................................
and got a change of plans on the motor.... depending if i feel like it i might start it up tomorow and see if it runs differnt from before.... i might not...i might go ahead and pull the top end....... ill order the parts as soon as i find out what the bore is...
and that muffler packing schitt is for the birds.... it sucked....... i got some extra money so depending on how much goes into the engine and how much for the klx.... i might go ahead and order a whole pipe and silencer....
well thanks guys for helping me and as aslways.... stop by and say hi... and tell me your thoughts
Welcome to the joys of really old two stroke bikes. You really need to take that brake pad pin out and replace the both of them. Dot 3 is NOT OK. The bike calls for Dot 4 for a reason. 10W 40 however is going to be fine because your gonna change it again here pretty soon anyway. Repacking a silencer isnt rocket surgery. However you are trying to repack a broken silencer. At the very minimum purchase a new silencer. I had no idea your bike was that bad off. I thought I had it rough with mine. After reading about yours mine has been a cream puff in comparison. But you will power through it.
I have run dot3 for years, never boiled....
DOT 5 is NOT ok......
Probablybecause you ride like apussy. especially with that trials tire.whats that rated for 3mph?
I wish you would grow some nuts andgive a chick a hot carl!
lol I',m ptretty drink right now so goodle that!
well i got the silencer on.. ...(so that means im dont working on that part)
Only thing left i have to do on the brakes is add new fluid and bleed.... seeings how the rear fluid was phoked up im going to do the front also...
(i also need to buy a set of rotors front and rear mine are chewed up from the old pads...there ok for now)
i picked up some new line for my over flow tubes for the carb...
Still got to change bottem end oil..
I got lucas 2 stroke oil (guy at autozone said he runs it .. and its pretty good)
----
Now for the questions
What do i need to do with my cylinder... Can i inspect it and mic it.... Or do i have to send it off somewhere and have it checked out...Or should my local dealer be able to check that.... I can mic the cylinder and everything ive just never did one thats been plated??
So i need
Piston
Rings
Gaskets
Wrist pin (i think it comes with piston and with the clips)
Wrist pin bearing
I guess after i get it together i will need a few plugs... and some guidence on how to break it in correctly..and what ratio..
Only thing left i have to do on the brakes is add new fluid and bleed.... seeings how the rear fluid was phoked up im going to do the front also...
(i also need to buy a set of rotors front and rear mine are chewed up from the old pads...there ok for now)
i picked up some new line for my over flow tubes for the carb...
Still got to change bottem end oil..
I got lucas 2 stroke oil (guy at autozone said he runs it .. and its pretty good)
----
Now for the questions
What do i need to do with my cylinder... Can i inspect it and mic it.... Or do i have to send it off somewhere and have it checked out...Or should my local dealer be able to check that.... I can mic the cylinder and everything ive just never did one thats been plated??
So i need
Piston
Rings
Gaskets
Wrist pin (i think it comes with piston and with the clips)
Wrist pin bearing
I guess after i get it together i will need a few plugs... and some guidence on how to break it in correctly..and what ratio..
Take it to a shop and have them speck it out. For their service you can buy the rebuild kit from them as kind of a thank you. One you have it all back together. Break in is simple. I do three heat cycles and two runs.
let the motor completely cool down between each heat cycle and the first run don't get above half throttle just go through the gears. Second run let it rip go through the gears and you are set Fine tune the carb and go from there.
let the motor completely cool down between each heat cycle and the first run don't get above half throttle just go through the gears. Second run let it rip go through the gears and you are set Fine tune the carb and go from there.
you got tricked by the guy at the auto store!, lucas is good, but its like 2x as expensive as normal stuff, but you dont get 2x's the life!