250 The 1999 YZ250

Unless the springs are for your weight then your adjustments won’t do a whole lot.
Also post a good sounding video of the motor running at idle. If it won’t idle just hold it slight above idle and pull the clutch lever in and out to see if the noise changes.
 
Unless the springs are for your weight then your adjustments won’t do a whole lot.
The forks were 21 clicks out when we checked and dude that showed me how and where to adjust them said it might have been sprung for a really light guy.?
How does one determine what the springs are rated for? Pull them out and look for a stamped number?

Posting video isn't easy, so here is a clip of a bike that sounds exactly like mine. Its real easy to hear the ticking noise right after he blips the throttle and it starts coming down;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPnsouKN3Gk
The noise does not go away when you pull in the clutch.

Looking at the parts fiche I also see this governor. Is this inside the right side case?
I haven't seen the governor or the power valve yet.
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
Rich jetting causes a burble. Also causes fouled plugs.
Lean bog is a complete cut of power due to lack of fuel. If feels like the ignition cut with a lean bog. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
The forks were 21 clicks out when we checked and dude that showed me how and where to adjust them said it might have been sprung for a really light guy.?
How does one determine what the springs are rated for? Pull them out and look for a stamped number?

Posting video isn't easy, so here is a clip of a bike that sounds exactly like mine. Its real easy to hear the ticking noise right after he blips the throttle and it starts coming down;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPnsouKN3Gk
The noise does not go away when you pull in the clutch.

Looking at the parts fiche I also see this governor. Is this inside the right side case?
I haven't seen the governor or the power valve yet.


Sounds like a crank or lower rod bearing to me. Have you tried chasing it with a screwdriver stethoscope?
 
Rich jetting causes a burble.
Would that be the same as a sputter? Sounds like someone blowing their nose?
When you pull the magneto cover off can you move the crank up and down?
I'll let you know when I get there.
I just unloaded the bikes and hosed them off real nice so they'll be clean and dry for tomorrow.
Gonna check compression on it first, then run it and take the stethoscope to it once more.
I'll prolly be back here mid-morning asking stupid questions again...
 
Would that be the same as a sputter? Sounds like someone blowing their nose?

I'll let you know when I get there.
I just unloaded the bikes and hosed them off real nice so they'll be clean and dry for tomorrow.
Gonna check compression on it first, then run it and take the stethoscope to it once more.
I'll prolly be back here mid-morning asking stupid questions again...


We thrive on stupid questions here.
 
I just noticed there was some spooge after the track yesterday...so I think I'm gonna drop that float level from its current setting of 7mm to its recommended limit of 7.5.
Both my smoker's have responded favorably to me dropping the float so far and I'm starting to feel like that's been the issue the whole time.
 
Did the compression test - 216psi.
Dropped the float to 7.5 like I said, and ran it for about 10 minutes. Sounded decent enough I guess for just blipping it on a stand.
Adjusting the air screw didn't seem to have much affect and it ran all the way in.
I'm at stock jetting and clip position. Spark plug looked dry, not sure what color but darkish.

Took the stethoscope to it and the noise seems to be more in the upper end, and maybe near the PV, but it's hard to be sure. It does sound like it gets further away the further down toward the bottom of the engine I get.
But that might just be wishful thinking.
I replaced a front wheel bearing in my car once, only to have it be the other side that was bad. I could've sworn it was coming from the one side though.
I'll take apart the PV next.
 
Did the compression test - 216psi.
Dropped the float to 7.5 like I said, and ran it for about 10 minutes. Sounded decent enough I guess for just blipping it on a stand.
Adjusting the air screw didn't seem to have much affect and it ran all the way in.
I'm at stock jetting and clip position. Spark plug looked dry, not sure what color but darkish.

Took the stethoscope to it and the noise seems to be more in the upper end, and maybe near the PV, but it's hard to be sure. It does sound like it gets further away the further down toward the bottom of the engine I get.
But that might just be wishful thinking.
I replaced a front wheel bearing in my car once, only to have it be the other side that was bad. I could've sworn it was coming from the one side though.
I'll take apart the PV next.


Break out the calipers and start micing parts
 
Started digging into the YZ today and noticed that the top piston ring is partially exposed down in the cylinder. It looks like a lot to me, but would like y'alls opinion, is this normal?
Namura Piston Oct 2017.JPG
The cylinder mic'd out at 66.4mm, and the new piston is a 66.36.
99 YZ250 Cyl_Pist Specs.png
 
Started digging into the YZ today and noticed that the top piston ring is partially exposed down in the cylinder. It looks like a lot to me, but would like y'alls opinion, is this normal?
View attachment 31264
The cylinder mic'd out at 66.4mm, and the new piston is a 66.36.
View attachment 31265

What does it mic out at the bottom of the cylinder. I always mic the top, bottom and middle, left to right, front to back. That could be your chatter right there also known as piston slap. At which point you need to pick one of the following if it doesn’t measure well.
1: get a new cylinder
2: bore and replated the existing cylinder
3: bore and resleeve the existing cylinder.

Back 20 yrs ago I was a fan of the 1st one but I prefer choice #2 as it’s always come back better than new.
 
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