250 The 1999 YZ250

Dont know. I dont have those tools.
A guy at a local shop mic'd it, said it was 66.4mm.


Ahhh. I see. What about when you installed the new piston. Did you install the rings into the cylinder and check the ring end gap top middle and bottom?
 
That is not going to end pretty if you keep running it. Ring will wear, pinch, bind, say goodbuy to cylinder. Like I told you, I have access to replating at dealer cost. Just got my cylinder back and it looks great, and the piston is matched. Could probably do your 125 and 250 for under 5 if piston is supplied.
 
I just ordered;
6 Pc Precision Telescoping Gage Set 5/16" - 6" Range T-Bore Hole Gauges w/ Pouch
For $18.00 I couldn't say no. Be here by Monday.

I'm not gonna run it.
I dont know that I can do 2 cylinders at a time with X-mas coming up, but I'll try to at least get the 250 cylinder to you @PALMER84ONE .
The kid's 125 can wait.

Or...I could throw a for sale sign in the CR80 and use the cash to do both cylinders...hmmm...
What kind of turn around time?
 
Once I have them and ship them out it will be 1-2 weeks. Better yet, you be me... Fill out the form as me, use my address in Prescott for return, using my shop name. Throw a little note in there that the shop has moved to Prescott (I told them this already in email), and say call for billing use my #, I'll pay with my CC, you pay me back. PM, or call, I'll fill you in on all details. Be back in prescott before Tday with a load of CA house. I'll see if I can post photos of jug I just had them do tomorrow, very good work like Langcourt used to do.
 
Once I have them and ship them out it will be 1-2 weeks. Better yet, you be me... Fill out the form as me, use my address in Prescott for return, using my shop name. Throw a little note in there that the shop has moved to Prescott (I told them this already in email), and say call for billing use my #, I'll pay with my CC, you pay me back. PM, or call, I'll fill you in on all details. Be back in prescott before Tday with a load of CA house. I'll see if I can post photos of jug I just had them do tomorrow, very good work like Langcourt used to do.
I'm gonna take you up on that. I'll text you later.
 
First post here on the forum, as i found your thread by way of searching 1999 YZ250 jetting/carb stuff. I also have a new to me 1999 YZ250 and it sounds like our bikes were cut of the same cloth. My YZ runs like a champ from mid to top, but is exceedingly rich off the bottom. It burbles and basically runs terrible under minimal throttle, then cleans out after 1/4 throttle or so. I have leaned out the pilot to what I consider a dangerously lean jet, with no luck. It has good compresison, and passed a leakdown test so unlikely it's the crank seals.

Since my bike was leaking gas and the float setting was seemingly unresponsive, I attempted to replace the needle & seat. I then found that the seat is actually pressed into the carb body. And unfortunately the carb body is no longer available. So Yay...

I just picked up a carb from a 2001, which is reputed to be a great upgrade. It's a PWK Air Striker and is common swap on CR250s.

Anyhoo, i'll let you know if this is my silver bullet or not. HOpe you get yours running perfect!
 
Setting the float is probably what you are missing.
This is an old thread now and this is one of my first bikes. It is also one of the bikes that I spent the most time messing with and learning about the carb, and I think I am finally getting the hang of it now. All the big boys here at DBA know of my escapades in the last couple years and can tell you stories about my stupid questions (or the noob can go find them and read them if they choose), but the one thing it all came back to in the end, was the damn float setting. It was the main culprit every time.
Now I have one of those fancy-schmantzy float measuring tools, and I dont have those problems anymore. When I first got it I took it to my sons CR80, (the one I melted the cylinder on), and it really showed me how far off my eye really was.
I highly recommend them now, no guessing.
 
Setting the float is probably what you are missing. Welcome.

Went through that actually. Float level set and reset a few times to accommodate the leaking. Set them at 6mm, right in the middle of the recommended range. No cracks in the floats, and they don't bind either. ALso going to test the coil, as that could certainly effect the ignition of fuel charge, especially at low RPMs.
 
Went through that actually. Float level set and reset a few times to accommodate the leaking. Set them at 6mm, right in the middle of the recommended range. No cracks in the floats, and they don't bind either. ALso going to test the coil, as that could certainly effect the ignition of fuel charge, especially at low RPMs.

The 16mm I was talking about was for the cr donated pwk you mention which is btw NOT standard on 2001 cr250's. Honda last sent a keihin in 2000. Where did your original actually shut off fuel flow at? (assuming without a lengthy explanation you are familiar with how to test actual shutoff.)
 
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The 16 I was talking about was for the cr donated pwk you mention which is btw NOT standard on 2001 cr250's. Honda last sent a keihin in 2000. Where did your original actually shut off fuel flow at? (assuming without a lengthy explanation you are familiar with how to test actual shutoff.)
I checked top and bottom, rings were about .001 different if I remember correctly.

Usually I find the most wear is just under where the rings end their northern journey and just after where they head back "south". I always check them at the bottom figuring that is going to be the tightest point. They don't travel that far, but it lets you know your minimum gap.
 
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